I was going to the end of the world! These few words were, for me, the perfect conclusion to a journey that started in Buenos Aires, passed through Uruguay and Chile, and ended in Ushuaïa, in Tierra del Fuego.
Ushuaïa embodies the wonder of an 18-year-old woman who dreamed of travelling the world and completed her first major trip (outside Europe) at this location—albeit accompanied but independent. It was the awakening of a love for South America but also for a more adventurous way of travelling, the discovery of sharing the journey with someone else, and ultimately, the idea of returning and perhaps even venturing to Antarctica.
This journey led me to the ends of the earth, to Ushuaïa, Argentina. Ushuaïa was also a place where I had no particular expectations of what I would discover. I found it to be a place where everything collides: a land of discoveries with its departures for Antarctica, but also a land of origins with its customs and locals. It’s an atmosphere that’s difficult to put into words but incredible!
Indeed, nestled between the majestic Andes Mountains and the icy waters of the Beagle Channel, Ushuaïa, the southernmost city on the planet, is a place where nature reigns supreme and every landscape seems straight out of a dream.
Upon my arrival by bus from El Calafate, I was struck by the raw and wild beauty of the region. The snow-capped mountains stood proudly on the horizon, while the lush forests seemed to stretch endlessly. The cold wind, carrying the salty scent of the sea, reminded me that I was truly at the end of the world. It was an exhilarating feeling, standing on the edge of the unknown in a place where few dare to venture.
Exploring the City of Ushuaïa
Strolling through the streets of Ushuaïa, one dives into a setting where modernity flirts with tradition. The colourful houses, typical of Patagonia, stand proudly. And then, there are the souvenir shops, the cafés, and the restaurants serving king crab and Patagonian lamb in every way imaginable. The atmosphere is warm and deliciously inviting, though also expensive.
The city sprawls gently, but don’t be fooled: Ushuaïa still revolves around one main street, Avenida San Martín. This is where all the action is, with its souvenir shops, cafés, restaurants, and even Duty-Free stores vying to lighten your wallet! This street has become the playground for tourists, filled with luxury boutiques and high prices. It’s the price to pay for strolling at the end of the world, so they say!
And of course, no visit to Ushuaïa would be complete without a stop at the port to admire the famous “Ushuaïa – Fin del Mundo” sign.
The tourist office enthusiastically stamps passports with little penguins and lighthouses marked “end of the world.” Like thousands of tourists before me, I couldn’t resist this ritual, to bring back another keepsake from this city that knows how to put the world at its feet… at a high cost, sure, but with style!
Sailing Along the Beagle Channel in Ushuaïa
One of the must-do activities in Ushuaïa is sailing on the Beagle Channel. This mythical channel, which separates the main island of Tierra del Fuego from Navarino and Hoste islands, offers breathtaking landscapes and an impressive biodiversity.
The excursion begins at the port of Ushuaïa, where several small colourful cabins lined along the quay offer tickets for various excursions. These sea tours are quite similar, but each promises a unique adventure amidst the subantarctic landscapes. Each cabin is a promise of adventure; you just have to choose your tour and let yourself embark on a unique experience.
During the navigation, you’ll have the opportunity to discover several islands of the Beagle Channel. These islets are a refuge for many animal species, such as sea lions, cormorants, and even flightless penguins. These animals live in colonies on the rocks, offering a fascinating natural spectacle.
Depending on the tour, you might even reach the “Lighthouse at the End of the World,” officially named the San Juan del Salvamento Lighthouse. However, it is often confused with the Les Éclaireurs Lighthouse (the French name “Les Éclaireurs” means “the Scouts”), which is located on the Beagle Channel, opposite Ushuaïa. This confusion arises from their geographical proximity and their association with the southernmost tip of South America, but they are distinct both in location and history. The San Juan del Salvamento Lighthouse is particularly famous for having inspired Jules Verne’s novel “The Lighthouse at the End of the World.”
The journey lasts between three to six hours depending on which one you choose. Sailing on the Beagle Channel is an immersion into the raw and majestic nature of Patagonia.
Discovering Penguins on Martillo Island
The excursion to Martillo Island to observe penguins is one of the most enchanting experiences you can have in Ushuaïa, especially if, like me, you are fascinated by these adorable creatures!
You can reach the island by sailboat, as we did, or even by kayak. This small island is a true sanctuary for Magellanic penguins and Gentoo penguins, who set up their nests there during the breeding season. Watching them waddle on the beach or dive gracefully into the water is both an endearing and amusing sight.
We opted for a sailing excursion with the Paludine company, which I remember was a less commercial option, but more authentic. What mattered to me was travelling with a crew not only expert in navigation but also passionate about penguins. Thanks to them, I learned more about the behaviour, diet, and challenges these birds face in this extreme environment.
Final thought
Travelling to Ushuaïa, this peaceful and remote city in Argentina, was a revelation for me. Despite being touristy and expensive, it made me realize the importance of stepping out of my comfort zone and embracing the unknown.
This journey, the first of many, sparked in me a passion for exploring the most remote corners of our planet. Ushuaïa will remain etched in my memory, not only for its breathtaking landscapes but also for the deep emotions and unforgettable memories it offered me. This adventure at the edge of the world was just the beginning of a quest to discover even further, and perhaps one day, to set foot on the ice and observe the majestic emperor penguins in Antarctica.
