For as long as I can remember, Egypt has been a land of mystery and fascination for me. As a child, I dreamed of becoming an Egyptologist, of exploring the secrets buried beneath the thousand-year-old sands, of unravelling the enigmas of the pharaohs, and of following in the footsteps of these ancient civilisations that have left an indelible mark on the history of humanity.
In December 2023, I finally realised this childhood dream. For 8 days, I plunged into the enchanting world of Egypt, a journey that awakened in me the budding Egyptologist that I’ve never stopped being.
Each step of the journey will be the subject of a detailed article. However, in this post, you’ll find the addresses of the hotels/Airbnbs where we stayed, as well as some practical advice.
Day 1: Cairo – first contact with Egypt’s history
As soon as we arrived in Cairo, I was captivated by the effervescence of this sprawling city. The contrast between urban modernity and historical remains is striking.
Our first stop was the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, a veritable national treasure. Here we were able to admire some incredible artefacts, including the famous funerary mask of Tutankhamun. Seeing these objects in person, after having studied them in so many books, was a powerful experience. Each relic told a story, a fragment of the past that I had so longed to discover.
Travel details
We arrived in the middle of the night, directly from Rome. To simplify our arrival, we had booked a transfer with our hotel.
During our stay in Cairo, we systematically used Uber to get around. In the frenzy of the Egyptian capital, it was the most practical means of transport. Despite the sometimes insistent comments of some drivers, we felt safe, and the app spared us the inevitable negotiations over the price of the fare, a considerable advantage for any woman travelling in Egypt. It is important to note, however, that this service is only available in Cairo.
Hotel : Cairo House Hostel
The hotel, with its spacious rooms away from the hustle and bustle of the capital, may not be a must, but it proved perfect for a short night after our late arrival.
Days 2-4: Giza – the shadow of the giants
The following days were dedicated to the majestic pyramids of Giza, an eternal symbol of ancient Egypt. Standing in front of the Great Pyramid of Cheops, one of the wonders of the world, was a moment of pure admiration.
The question that had haunted me as a child – how did they do it? – resurfaced, even more powerful in the face of the reality of these colossi. The Sphinx, with its enigmatic gaze, left a lasting impression on me, as if it were still guarding the secrets of the pharaohs.
But our exploration didn’t stop at Giza. We began our journey in the footsteps of the pyramids towards Saqqara, home to the Step Pyramid of Djoser, considered to be the very first pyramid built in Egypt. The atmosphere there was different, quieter, almost mystical. Walking through the lands where the first pharaohs erected grandiose monuments to ensure their passage to the afterlife was an intense moment, full of respect for these visionary builders.
Memphis, the ancient capital of Egypt, gave us another perspective on Pharaonic history. The remains, although more modest than the pyramids, were no less impressive. The colossal statue of Ramses II, lying in its shelter, testified to the past grandeur of this mythical city.
In this immersion in ancient Egypt, we took a break to explore a different aspect of the country. During a trip to the modern city of the 6th of October, we ventured into an ultra-modern mall. The place was luxurious and flamboyant, in stark contrast to the thousand-year-old monuments I had seen the previous few days. Walking down the aisles of this shopping centre, surrounded by luxury boutiques and international restaurants, was like entering a bubble of modernity, far removed from the daily realities of many Egyptians.
This luxury left a bitter taste in my mouth. Walking through the glittering aisles of this mall, I was struck by the irony of such a place in a country where social inequalities are so marked. While the pyramids bear witness to Egypt’s past grandeur, these brand-new shopping centres seem to reveal another side of the country: a present where the gaps between rich and poor are increasingly visible. The contrast between these dazzling shop windows and the poverty that persists in many parts of Cairo is striking.
The very idea of building cities like 6th of October, appearing out of nowhere in the desert, raises questions about the direction the country is taking. These new cities, built in an artificial setting, seem utopian, almost disconnected from Egypt’s economic and social realities. They certainly reflect an aspiration to modernity, but they also highlight the widening gap between those who have access to this dream and those who are excluded.
Travel details
During our visit to Saqqara and Memphis, we made the mistake of not opting for a certified Egyptology guide. Instead, we booked our tour via an online app, similar to Get Your Guide (I think it was Viator but I’m not sure), and were disappointed by the quality of the information provided.
Our guide, whose English was very poor, was only able to give us superficial explanations, with no real depth or added value. In the end, our exploration almost turned into a solo visit, which, although unrestricted, didn’t allow us to fully grasp the historical and cultural richness of the area. An experienced guide would undoubtedly have added an extra dimension to our discovery, enabling us to fully appreciate these emblematic sites. Fortunately, the next day we were able to make up for this disappointment by exploring the pyramids of Giza with an exceptional guide.
Airbnb: Great Pyramids View – Sky Lounge
Our stay in an Airbnb near the Pyramids of Giza was a real showstopper. With a terrace offering breathtaking views of the pyramids, it was the perfect place to relax after our days of exploring. What more could you ask for than to wake up each morning with a direct view of these wonders of the world?
The owner of the Airbnb embodied Egyptian hospitality in all its generosity. Always available and attentive, he played an essential role in organising the rest of our trip. Thanks to his recommendations, we were able to book tailor-made expeditions for our stay in Luxor, a service that truly enriched our experience in Egypt.
Days 5-8: Luxor – in the heart of Ancient Egypt
The trip then took a more introspective turn at Luxor, a veritable open-air museum. The temple of Karnak, with its colossal columns decorated with hieroglyphics, was an invitation to plunge into history. We spent hours deciphering the inscriptions and imagining the daily lives of those who carved them.
The Valley of the Queens and especially the Valley of the Kings, on the other side of the Nile, were the highlights of our stay in Luxor. Descending into the tombs of the pharaohs, where the walls are still covered in brilliant frescoes, was an almost mystical experience.
Hatshepsut’s temple, majestically set into the cliff, was another marvel. I was inspired by this queen’s determination to leave a lasting mark on history. With every step, I could feel the breath of the past, reminding me why this country had always fascinated me.
We also took an excursion to Aswan to discover the temple of Philae and other temples along the majestic Nile. A rather eventful story that will be on the blog soon.
Travel details
We took a domestic flight from Cairo to Luxor with Nile Air. It’s highly advisable to arrive at Cairo airport early, especially at the domestic terminal, as several security checks are waiting for you (two even before you reach the check-in counter).
When we arrived in Luxor, we had also booked a transfer via our hotel to the West Bank of the Nile, which allowed us to avoid being hailed by taxis as we left the airport. A new bridge, inaugurated in December 2023, saved us around twenty minutes crossing the Nile.
In Luxor, the most efficient (and sometimes the only operational) way of crossing the Nile is by boat. More than just a river, the Nile is Egypt’s vital artery, carrying with it thousands of years of history. In Luxor, it becomes the ideal backdrop for an unforgettable experience.
Hotel: In Luxor Nile Apartments
We were lucky enough to stay in a hotel with an uninterrupted view of the tranquil waters of the Nile, and each morning we were greeted by the majestic sight of the river, lined with greenery and enlivened by the ballet of feluccas. These traditional boats, with their elegantly unfurled white sails, seemed to glide peacefully down the Nile, offering a striking contrast to the bustle of the city.
In the evening, as the sun set, tinting the sky in shades of gold and purple, we could see the famous Winter Palace in the distance, the legendary hotel where the great Agatha Christie stayed. Imagining the writer contemplating this same landscape, inspired by the mysterious and bewitching atmosphere of the Nile, added an almost literary dimension to our trip.
Final thoughts on Egypt
This trip to Egypt was more than a geographical exploration; it was a plunge into the heart of my childhood dreams, an inner quest that allowed me to reconnect with this passion that has never left me. Egypt, and by association, travelling, showed me that childhood dreams can become realities as vibrant as the lands on which they were built.
However, this experience also confronted me with a more complex and, at times, disconcerting reality. Seeing the stark contrast between the grandeur of the pyramids, eternal symbols of a glorious civilisation, and the artificial modernity of the city of 6th of October left me with a sense of sadness. Egypt, despite its priceless heritage, sometimes seems incapable of transforming this extraordinary past into a future worthy of its ancient splendour. This juxtaposition between a monumental past and a sometimes bewildering present made me reflect on the difficulty of preserving the soul of a nation while seeking to embrace modernity. Rather than celebrating its history as a springboard to an equally grand future, Egypt sometimes seems to lose itself in a quest for modernity that does not fully honour its glorious past.
Walking through the lands where pharaohs ruled, where civilisations flourished and declined, I realised just how much the past can inform our understanding of the present. The journey reminded me that, like Egypt, we are all the product of our history, our dreams and our experiences. And even if we evolve and change, certain passions, and certain dreams, never leave us.
This trip to Egypt rekindled in me not only the child who dreamed of being an Egyptologist but also the adult who sees the importance of keeping those childhood dreams alive. I learned that the places we visit, the experiences we have, shape our understanding of the world and ourselves. Egypt, you have shown me that, to move forward, it is sometimes essential to return to our roots, to reconnect with what once inspired us. And for that, I am deeply grateful. Please don’t forget that for your future either.
