Moved, shaken, fascinated… I stand with deep emotion at the base of the Great Pyramid of Khufu, the oldest of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The warm desert wind brushes against my skin, but the silent majesty of this pyramid fills my thoughts. How were such architectural feats accomplished with the tools of their time?
This question lingers in my mind throughout my visit—a mystery I do not claim to solve definitively. But one thing is certain: the pyramids, with their colossal stone blocks and almost supernatural precision, command immediate respect and profound humility.
“Man fears time, but time fears the pyramids.” – Arabic Proverb
After diving into the millennia-old history of Cairo, it was time to venture into the mysteries surrounding the pyramids. The second day of our journey took us on the trail of ancient civilizations to fascinating sites just a short distance from the capital.
Saqqara: The First Pyramid in History
Our first stop of the day was Saqqara, an essential archaeological site home to the famous Step Pyramid of Djoser. This pyramid, one of the oldest and most iconic in Egypt, marked a turning point in funerary architecture. Built-in the 3rd millennium BCE, it paved the way for the great pyramids we know today. The structure was designed by Imhotep, a well-known figure in popular culture. In reality, Imhotep was a man of many talents—vizier, physician, architect, and much more—under King Djoser’s reign.
We were standing in the presence of history: each stone seemed to whisper secrets of antiquity. Admittedly, it wasn’t our guide’s faint murmurs (I’ve mentioned him here) that would reveal the pyramids’ mysteries. For this day, our imagination and a few explanatory signs served us well.
Walking around the site, the feeling of being before an ancient yet strikingly modern architectural feat was overwhelming. It left us in awe of the builders’ ingenuity, making us feel small in comparison to these imposing structures.
Dahshur: Pyramids and Transitions
A few kilometres from Saqqara lies Dahshur, a lesser-known site that nonetheless holds even more fascinating surprises. Why? Because we had the chance to explore the inside of a pyramid and believe me, it was an unforgettable experience!
Picture this: descending backwards into the depths of a pyramid, then climbing back up (as the entrance is not at the base but mid-height) to find yourself in the very heart of the structure, surrounded by tons upon tons of stone blocks. Claustrophobic? Not quite… The most unsettling part wasn’t the heavy air, but the bats that happily accompanied us on our visit.
But really, who can say they’ve been at the centre of a pyramid? It was just… incredible!
Now, let’s move beyond our explorer tales. Dahshur is best known for two major structures: the Red Pyramid (the first smooth-sided pyramid) and the Bent Pyramid. The latter, unique for its shape, features two distinct inclines: the first, from the base to the midpoint, slopes at 58°, while the second, rising to the summit, inclines at 43°22′. This change in angle, which gives it such a peculiar appearance, is thought to result from a mid-construction adjustment to the original plan—a daring architectural experiment that didn’t fully succeed.
Dahshur is a key site in the evolution of pyramids. It showcases the first architectural experiments, transitioning from Saqqara’s Step Pyramid to the classic form we now associate with the Pyramids of Giza. It’s a genuine turning point in Egyptian architectural history, where the air seems infused with the energy of ancient attempts to defy time and space.
Memphis: The Ancient Capital of the Pharaohs
After exploring these appetizers of the Giza pyramids, we headed to Memphis, the ancient capital of Pharaonic Egypt. Today, this city is little more than an open-air museum, but its historical impact remains unparalleled. Strolling among the ruins of temples and colossal statues, you can immediately feel the grandeur of this city—a centre of power that once ruled the entire Nile Valley.
As the capital of Egypt throughout the Old Kingdom, Memphis retained its importance throughout Egyptian history. It was a major political and religious hub, where the god Ptah was particularly venerated and where pharaohs were crowned. During the Middle Kingdom, Memphis was nicknamed the “Balance of the Two Lands,” underscoring its central role between Upper and Lower Egypt.
During our visit, we admired the impressive statue of Ramses II. Its grandeur and majesty leave an unforgettable impression. We also discovered the alabaster Sphinx: carved from a single block, it stands 4 meters tall, 7 meters long, and weighs 80 tons. These features suggest it might have belonged to Queen Hatshepsut.
A Journey Through Time
Each stage of this day brought us closer to the mysteries of Egyptian civilization. Each pyramid, each ruin, and each relic told a story of ambition, the quest for eternity, and architectural ingenuity. The site of Saqqara, the pyramids of Dahshur, and the ruins of Memphis are open pages of history, where the past seems to stretch into infinity.
This second day helped us better understand the world view of the ancient Egyptians—a civilization already thinking of the afterlife with eternal monuments, and symbols of power meant to be indestructible. And even after millennia, the pyramids continue to defy time, reminding us that, ultimately, they have the final word.
As we left these sites, one certainty remained: Egypt does not easily reveal its secrets. You have to experience it, feel it, and every moment transports you to another world, where eternity is measured in stones and shadows.
What’s next? The Pyramids of Giza, of course. But that’s for the next day.
Cairo, the vibrant and lively capital of Egypt, harmoniously blends its millennia-old history with modern culture in constant transformation. The city is full of treasures to explore, from majestic pyramids to bustling markets.
While many travellers come to marvel at the pyramids and the Sphinx, Cairo offers numerous other historical sites and neighbourhoods worth visiting. Sure, the city is often associated with its dust, chaotic traffic, oppressive heat, and bewildering nature, but I encourage you to set aside these preconceptions and experience the city for yourself.
A city at the crossroads of epochs, Cairo combines tradition and modernity: donkey carts advance on dusty roads while just a few meters away, honking cars crowd the streets. Discovering Cairo means embracing its unique and disorderly charm—an experience that may not appeal to everyone, but one that remains unforgettable. Welcome to Egypt!
For as long as I can remember, Egypt has been a land of mystery and fascination for me. As a child, I dreamed of becoming an Egyptologist, of exploring the secrets buried beneath the thousand-year-old sands, of unravelling the enigmas of the pharaohs, and of following in the footsteps of these ancient civilisations that have left an indelible mark on the history of humanity.
In December 2023, I finally realised this childhood dream. For 8 days, I plunged into the enchanting world of Egypt, a journey that awakened in me the budding Egyptologist that I’ve never stopped being.
Cilaos, the last of the three cirques that inhabit the beautiful island of Réunion. Far less well-known than the other two cirques, I decided to venture there one day, alone, in my sister’s old hire car. Legend has it that the car never recovered from the very winding road that leads there.
The Cirque de Cilaos is formed by the ramparts of the caldera of the Piton des Neiges, Réunion’s highest peak. At an average altitude of 1,200 metres, Cilaos is surrounded by majestic peaks, sharp ridges and deep ravines, creating a magnificent mountain landscape.
Reunion, the jewel of the Indian Ocean, is an island of a thousand facets, offering a surprising diversity of landscapes. Among its natural treasures, the Cirque de Salazie stands out for its lush beauty, majestic waterfalls and pleasant atmosphere.
The Cirque de Salazie, located in the heart of Reunion Island, is one of three natural cirques that characterize the island’s mountainous terrain. I’ve already told you about Mafate here. Surrounded by imposing mountains, this cirque offers a setting of unspoilt nature, with its vertiginous crests, verdant valleys and spectacular waterfalls.
Reunion Island, located in the Indian Ocean, is a heavenly destination with no scarcity of charm and attractions. This French Island, often referred to as ” the intense island “, is a genuine jewel of nature, renowned for its geographical diversity, rich culture and fascinating history. With spectacular landscapes ranging from white sandy beaches to mountain peaks, lush forests and volcanic cirques, Réunion offers an incomparable range of experiences.
Whether you’re a mountain hiker, a scuba diving enthusiast, a gourmet in search of exotic flavors, or simply looking to relax on paradise beaches, Réunion Island has something for everyone.
On Reunion Island, the Mafate cirque is one of the island’s most captivating natural treasures. Nestled in the heart of this lush cirque, you’ll discover unspoilt nature, breathtaking scenery, and an authentic Creole culture. To explore this natural wonder, without going there, there are two exciting activities, each offering a unique experience.
In this article, I present these two options for discovering the cirque de Mafate, whether you’re a seasoned hiker or looking for a more peaceful adventure.
A nature destination beyond compare, Réunion Island is a small, unspoilt jewel in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Réunion is the result of an unlikely marriage between volcanoes and the sea, giving it a unique charm and breathtaking beauty. You’ll be transported to a world apart, where nature reveals itself in all its splendour and diversity.
As you’ve probably gathered by now, I’m a coffee lover. Naturally, this often leads me to go on the hunt for beautiful cafés to discover, to hold caféthons with friends and even to take different itineraries on my travels to explore new coffee cultures.
So it was with great surprise that I discovered, during my trip to Reunion Island, that the island produces one of the world’s most popular (and expensive!) coffees: the Bourbon pointu. Having discovered the island’s history, I made a direct link with its former name (Bourbon Island) and this variety of coffee, but also with Bourbon vanilla.
