Luxor, formerly known as Thebes, is a city that embodies the historical heart of Ancient Egypt. Divided by the Nile into two distinct banks, it offers two complementary facets of this millennia-old civilization.
The East Bank, often called the “city of the living,” is home to the temples of Karnak and Luxor, places of worship and festivals dedicated to the gods. In contrast, the West Bank, nicknamed the “city of the dead,” is the realm of necropolises, featuring the famous Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens, where pharaohs rest for eternity.
Moved, shaken, fascinated… I stand with deep emotion at the base of the Great Pyramid of Khufu, the oldest of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The warm desert wind brushes against my skin, but the silent majesty of this pyramid fills my thoughts. How were such architectural feats accomplished with the tools of their time?
This question lingers in my mind throughout my visit—a mystery I do not claim to solve definitively. But one thing is certain: the pyramids, with their colossal stone blocks and almost supernatural precision, command immediate respect and profound humility.
“Man fears time, but time fears the pyramids.” – Arabic Proverb
After diving into the millennia-old history of Cairo, it was time to venture into the mysteries surrounding the pyramids. The second day of our journey took us on the trail of ancient civilizations to fascinating sites just a short distance from the capital.
Saqqara: The First Pyramid in History
Our first stop of the day was Saqqara, an essential archaeological site home to the famous Step Pyramid of Djoser. This pyramid, one of the oldest and most iconic in Egypt, marked a turning point in funerary architecture. Built-in the 3rd millennium BCE, it paved the way for the great pyramids we know today. The structure was designed by Imhotep, a well-known figure in popular culture. In reality, Imhotep was a man of many talents—vizier, physician, architect, and much more—under King Djoser’s reign.
We were standing in the presence of history: each stone seemed to whisper secrets of antiquity. Admittedly, it wasn’t our guide’s faint murmurs (I’ve mentioned him here) that would reveal the pyramids’ mysteries. For this day, our imagination and a few explanatory signs served us well.
Walking around the site, the feeling of being before an ancient yet strikingly modern architectural feat was overwhelming. It left us in awe of the builders’ ingenuity, making us feel small in comparison to these imposing structures.
Dahshur: Pyramids and Transitions
A few kilometres from Saqqara lies Dahshur, a lesser-known site that nonetheless holds even more fascinating surprises. Why? Because we had the chance to explore the inside of a pyramid and believe me, it was an unforgettable experience!
Picture this: descending backwards into the depths of a pyramid, then climbing back up (as the entrance is not at the base but mid-height) to find yourself in the very heart of the structure, surrounded by tons upon tons of stone blocks. Claustrophobic? Not quite… The most unsettling part wasn’t the heavy air, but the bats that happily accompanied us on our visit.
But really, who can say they’ve been at the centre of a pyramid? It was just… incredible!
Now, let’s move beyond our explorer tales. Dahshur is best known for two major structures: the Red Pyramid (the first smooth-sided pyramid) and the Bent Pyramid. The latter, unique for its shape, features two distinct inclines: the first, from the base to the midpoint, slopes at 58°, while the second, rising to the summit, inclines at 43°22′. This change in angle, which gives it such a peculiar appearance, is thought to result from a mid-construction adjustment to the original plan—a daring architectural experiment that didn’t fully succeed.
Dahshur is a key site in the evolution of pyramids. It showcases the first architectural experiments, transitioning from Saqqara’s Step Pyramid to the classic form we now associate with the Pyramids of Giza. It’s a genuine turning point in Egyptian architectural history, where the air seems infused with the energy of ancient attempts to defy time and space.
Memphis: The Ancient Capital of the Pharaohs
After exploring these appetizers of the Giza pyramids, we headed to Memphis, the ancient capital of Pharaonic Egypt. Today, this city is little more than an open-air museum, but its historical impact remains unparalleled. Strolling among the ruins of temples and colossal statues, you can immediately feel the grandeur of this city—a centre of power that once ruled the entire Nile Valley.
As the capital of Egypt throughout the Old Kingdom, Memphis retained its importance throughout Egyptian history. It was a major political and religious hub, where the god Ptah was particularly venerated and where pharaohs were crowned. During the Middle Kingdom, Memphis was nicknamed the “Balance of the Two Lands,” underscoring its central role between Upper and Lower Egypt.
During our visit, we admired the impressive statue of Ramses II. Its grandeur and majesty leave an unforgettable impression. We also discovered the alabaster Sphinx: carved from a single block, it stands 4 meters tall, 7 meters long, and weighs 80 tons. These features suggest it might have belonged to Queen Hatshepsut.
A Journey Through Time
Each stage of this day brought us closer to the mysteries of Egyptian civilization. Each pyramid, each ruin, and each relic told a story of ambition, the quest for eternity, and architectural ingenuity. The site of Saqqara, the pyramids of Dahshur, and the ruins of Memphis are open pages of history, where the past seems to stretch into infinity.
This second day helped us better understand the world view of the ancient Egyptians—a civilization already thinking of the afterlife with eternal monuments, and symbols of power meant to be indestructible. And even after millennia, the pyramids continue to defy time, reminding us that, ultimately, they have the final word.
As we left these sites, one certainty remained: Egypt does not easily reveal its secrets. You have to experience it, feel it, and every moment transports you to another world, where eternity is measured in stones and shadows.
What’s next? The Pyramids of Giza, of course. But that’s for the next day.
Cairo, the vibrant and lively capital of Egypt, harmoniously blends its millennia-old history with modern culture in constant transformation. The city is full of treasures to explore, from majestic pyramids to bustling markets.
While many travellers come to marvel at the pyramids and the Sphinx, Cairo offers numerous other historical sites and neighbourhoods worth visiting. Sure, the city is often associated with its dust, chaotic traffic, oppressive heat, and bewildering nature, but I encourage you to set aside these preconceptions and experience the city for yourself.
A city at the crossroads of epochs, Cairo combines tradition and modernity: donkey carts advance on dusty roads while just a few meters away, honking cars crowd the streets. Discovering Cairo means embracing its unique and disorderly charm—an experience that may not appeal to everyone, but one that remains unforgettable. Welcome to Egypt!
Ah, Geneva. The city of Calvin, diplomats, banks, and, apparently, cosy little cafés. For this fourth edition of the café crawl, we decided to take on a challenge: relocating our caffeinated “marathon” to a city I have no emotional attachment to. Spoiler alert: that didn’t change. But the mission was clear—hunt for good coffee, wherever possible. Train boarded at 09:55 from Vevey, destination Cornavin. Mood: motivated, but sceptical.
I was going to the end of the world! These few words were, for me, the perfect conclusion to a journey that started in Buenos Aires, passed through Uruguay and Chile, and ended in Ushuaïa, in Tierra del Fuego.
Ushuaïa embodies the wonder of an 18-year-old woman who dreamed of travelling the world and completed her first major trip (outside Europe) at this location—albeit accompanied but independent. It was the awakening of a love for South America but also for a more adventurous way of travelling, the discovery of sharing the journey with someone else, and ultimately, the idea of returning and perhaps even venturing to Antarctica.
For as long as I can remember, Egypt has been a land of mystery and fascination for me. As a child, I dreamed of becoming an Egyptologist, of exploring the secrets buried beneath the thousand-year-old sands, of unravelling the enigmas of the pharaohs, and of following in the footsteps of these ancient civilisations that have left an indelible mark on the history of humanity.
In December 2023, I finally realised this childhood dream. For 8 days, I plunged into the enchanting world of Egypt, a journey that awakened in me the budding Egyptologist that I’ve never stopped being.
In my previous article on My Son, I told you about the various excursions available from Hoi An. We explored the culture and nature of central Vietnam in the ancient archaeological city. Today, I’m taking you on a slightly more… shall we say, unexpected adventure, still departing from Hoi An. Surprising, because we had no idea what we were going to discover.
We booked a half-day tour with our hostel to discover the mysteries of the caves and caverns of Marble Mountain in Da Nang, followed by a visit to the famous Lady Buddha. Well, let’s say it was an unforgettable experience, especially thanks to our guide, who mastered English about as well as I mastered kung fu (which is to say, not at all).
A stroll through Hoi An, by far the best-preserved old town in Vietnam, gives you a rare feeling of stepping back in time. The pretty lantern-decorated streets reveal a cosmopolitan architecture that reflects the past of this once prosperous trading port.
Situated on the banks of the Thu Bon River, Hoi An is a coastal town in Vietnam that captivates visitors with its historic charm, well-preserved architecture and peaceful ambience. Not only have the ancient buildings survived the wars of the 20th century, but they have also retained traditional features that are rare today.
