Ah, Geneva. The city of Calvin, diplomats, banks, and, apparently, cosy little cafés. For this fourth edition of the café crawl, we decided to take on a challenge: relocating our caffeinated “marathon” to a city I have no emotional attachment to. Spoiler alert: that didn’t change. But the mission was clear—hunt for good coffee, wherever possible. Train boarded at 09:55 from Vevey, destination Cornavin. Mood: motivated, but sceptical.
Oh, Martine!: The Chic Station Café
First stop, Oh Martine!, literally a stone’s throw from the station. And you can tell the place knows its stuff: spacious, filled with plants, and aesthetically pleasing.
Orders are placed at the counter, and the process runs like a well-oiled Swiss train machine: quick and efficient, even with a considerable queue. This café has established itself as a neighbourhood staple, effortlessly bringing together locals and travellers. The coffee? Well-crafted and satisfying. Plus, a nice touch—you can help yourself to a glass of water without having to ask. Verdict: an ideal train station café. Next time I’m bound for Paris, I’ll probably make a detour to explore its enticing and diverse menu.
Rue de Montbrillant 2
1201 Geneva
Leaving the station behind, we made our way to old Geneva—a part of the city that, I must admit, has its merits. With its quaint old town, majestic cathedral, Bastions Park, and the opera, the area exudes charm and character. It’s a refreshing contrast to the usual monotony of this city perched at the edge of Lake Léman (yes that’s its name!), which I often find uninspiring. Onward, then, to our next stop in the heart of old Geneva.
Pages & Sips: English Charm
Second stop: Pages & Sips. Now, this was a big hit. It’s like a mini Shakespeare & Co in Paris but nestled in old Geneva. A cosy, quaint English-style setting, where every corner invites you to leaf through a book while sipping a fine coffee, or even a cup of tea—a sort of temple for caffeinated bibliophiles (everything I love).
The coffee is good, and the scones are delicious, but let’s be real, 11 CHF for a scone (albeit truffle-infused)? Geneva’s legendary expensiveness hits hard. Fortunately, water is self-serve, a small but significant detail. And the ambience… it’s one of those places where you could spend hours soaking it all in.
Grand-Rue 37
1204 Geneva
Off we go again, delighted and ready for our next stop. We strolled until we stumbled upon a magnificent esplanade, reminiscent of Bern’s Pläfe. From there, our eyes set upon Bastions Park stretching below. On to this iconic spot.
Le Kiosque des Bastions: Deceptive Beauty
Third stop, Le Kiosque des Bastions. This place steps up the game in terms of ambience: glass roof, plants, birds chirping. It’s the kind of brasserie that makes you feel sophisticated just by walking in. The issue? The coffee.
We arrived at 2 PM to find the place bustling and upscale, with not a single table free. Left with no other option, we settled at the bar, where the friendly bartender quickly won us over. Unfortunately, the coffee didn’t share the same charm—it was downright awful. When we mentioned it, the bartender trotted out the classic excuse: the machine had been acting up all morning. I was inclined to believe him, but that didn’t make the bitter experience any easier to swallow.
In an unexpected twist, he suggested we come back to sample their cocktails. We chuckled as he floated the idea of a “cocktailthon.” But the sight of Bailey’s in their espresso martini—rebranded as an “Espedro Martini”—had me retreating quickly. On the bright side, the atmosphere and the surprisingly low price of 3.70 francs for a coffee provided some redemption. A rare bargain in Geneva!
Promenade des Bastions 1
1205 Geneva
We strolled through the park at a relaxed pace, letting the fresh air clear our minds, before making our way to the final stop: Plainpalais. Engrossed in conversation, we eventually arrived and found a spot on a terrace, just as the sun decided to make a rare appearance over Geneva.
MAME: Fancy but Bland
Our final caffeinated stop was MAME. If you’re familiar with FripSquare in Lausanne, picture a similar concept, but less impressive—both in terms of second-hand finds and coffee. The neighbourhood itself doesn’t offer much inspiration, and while the café has a slightly upscale vibe, it lacks the vibrant yet soothing atmosphere of Lausanne’s under-station district.
At 3 PM, we decided to venture outside our comfort zone with an espresso tonic. Big mistake. It was watery, bland, and a complete miss—I couldn’t even finish it. My friend, braver than I, gave the cold brew tonic a shot, only to come to the same disappointing conclusion. And at 7 CHF a drink, it stung. The interior, with its sleek and minimalistic design, was pleasant enough, but nothing particularly memorable.
We lingered for about an hour though, chatting, reading, and soaking in the calm before heading back into the hustle of Geneva’s city centre and its shops.
Rue des Voisins 8
1205 Geneva
Next stop: Payot. Because let’s be real, even with our “to-read” piles already overflowing at home, stepping into a bookshop is always a delight. There’s that little rush of excitement in discovering new titles. Geneva may have its flaws, but its Payot? A true treasure. My friend walked out with a new book, just in time to catch her train back to Vevey.
Rumi’s: Espresso Martini and Geneva Conclusion
My day was far from over. To properly close out this café crawl tradition, I met up with a friend from Geneva. My first choice was Le Verre de Monique, a highly recommended spot. Unfortunately, it didn’t open until 7 PM—and to make matters worse, they didn’t serve my drink of choice. Plan B took us to Little Barrel in Eaux-Vives, but in a surprising twist, it was reserved for a private event.
With no clear destination, we wandered aimlessly until we stumbled upon a small, intimate, and cosy bar called Rumi’s. It seemed like the perfect place to toast the day with an espresso martini. Visually beautiful, but another twist: the cocktail was underwhelming. But in the end, we all know it’s not the drink that makes the moment—it’s the company. And the company I had throughout the day managed to reveal a glimmer of charm in a city that often feels cold and uninviting.
Rue Henri-Blanvalet 16
1207 Geneva
In the end, this fourth edition of our café crawl was a success. Geneva may not have stolen our hearts, but it certainly delivered a few delightful surprises.
Until next time, wherever the wind (and coffee) takes us! And as it’s (still) better in Lausanne, here are the 3 articles from the capital of Vaud:
