In my previous article on My Son, I told you about the various excursions available from Hoi An. We explored the culture and nature of central Vietnam in the ancient archaeological city. Today, I’m taking you on a slightly more… shall we say, unexpected adventure, still departing from Hoi An. Surprising, because we had no idea what we were going to discover.
We booked a half-day tour with our hostel to discover the mysteries of the caves and caverns of Marble Mountain in Da Nang, followed by a visit to the famous Lady Buddha. Well, let’s say it was an unforgettable experience, especially thanks to our guide, who mastered English about as well as I mastered kung fu (which is to say, not at all).
But let’s start with a little diversion to Da Nang. This coastal city of Vietnam, between tradition and modernity, is bathed by the South China Sea. With its famous dragon-shaped bridge lit up at night, it is also a witness to history, with relics of the Vietnam War such as the War Remnants Museum and the My Khe Beach Memorial.
Marble Mountain, spiritual hills of noble art in Da Nang
Now, let’s talk about those famous Marble Mountains. As we got closer, we discovered that the Da Nang region is famous for the marble found in the hills mentioned above. Buddha, Jesus, elephants, angels, cats, you name it, if you’re in the mood for shopping. The skills of the craftsmen were such that they could sculpt just about anything in this noble material.
Each mountain is named after one of the five essential elements of Eastern philosophical thought: Kim (metal), Tho (earth), Moc (wood), Hoa (fire) and Thuy (water), making it a spiritual and cultural Mecca in Vietnam.
But let’s be honest, these ‘mountains’ look more like hills (the Swiss in me, speaking). So imagine five hills, made of limestone and marble, where caves, paths and tunnels house shrines. And the view from the top is worth almost all the fake guidebooks in the world (well, almost).
Our guide promised us a shortcut to the summit, which turned out to be a real trap. We had to scramble and climb through holes in the rock, and even my slim friends had trouble… so imagine me! But anyway, I’m supposed to be an intrepid adventurer (albeit a wannabe one), so I braved the rocky challenges with style… or at least I tried to. But don’t worry, just take the official route (it’s fairly well signposted) and you’ll get to the top without a trace of mud or other scratches all over your body.
Visitors flock mainly to Thuy Son (the mountain of water), but our journey also took us to sanctuaries and ancient-looking doorways.
The caves are the highlight of the show, with their stalactites, stalagmites and exotic atmosphere that would make Indiana Jones swoon. The caves are full of shrines and spiritual images. Most of them are Buddhist, but there also appear to be Hindu remains.
One of these passages took us to Huyen Khong, a natural cave adorned with spectacular rock formations. Some call it “Instagrammable” (the cave’s collapsed ceiling allows beams of light to penetrate the dark interior, creating dramatic spotlights that are perfect), but for us, it was mostly a playground for spotting strange shapes in the rocks. Tell me what you see in the comments, even the most twisted minds are welcome!
We later learned that in the past, this cave served as a secret base and field hospital for Vietnamese revolutionaries. Despite its seemingly small entrance, the cave is quite large, with room for a massive stone Buddha and two shrines.
One of the shrines is dedicated to the god and goddess of dating, making it a popular place for couples and singles to come and worship.
Pagoda Linh Ung : Da Nang’s Lady Bouddha
After this day rich in discoveries, we had one last stop before returning to Hoi An. So, yes, when you think of Da Nang, the first images that come to mind are of its beaches and futuristic bridges. But the city hides many treasures, and the Linh Ung Pagoda with its majestic statue of Lady Buddha is a perfect example.
Perched proudly on the Son Tra peninsula, the Linh Ung pagoda is much more than just a place of worship for the locals. It’s a place where even the most stressed of city dwellers can meditate (or pretend to). Inaugurated in 2010, the pagoda attracts thousands of visitors every year, all in search of inner peace and architectural beauty.
The pagoda temples are very beautiful. Rich in ornamentation and detail, they offer spaces for meditation where incense can be burnt and offerings made. The faithful come here to pray for health, happiness and prosperity. It was one of the few places where I felt a real sense of serenity emanating from the place. And if not serenity, at least the pleasant smell of incense.
Of course, as with all our Vietnamese adventures, the skies were not clear. Farewell to the magnificent sunset promised by our guide in the early afternoon.
But he reassured us by promising us another equally impressive sight: the statue of Lady Buddha, a very imposing deity…
According to local legend, the construction of the Linh Ung pagoda was guided by an apparition of the goddess Quan Am, who brought a period of prosperity and peace to Da Nang. At 67 metres high, Lady Buddha is the largest Buddha statue in Vietnam. To give you an idea, it’s the equivalent of a 30-storey building. Yes, it’s huge! She watches over the sea and the fishermen, offering protection and blessings.
But what amused us most was the pagoda’s four-legged locals. Yes, there’s a colony of monkeys happily roaming the gardens. They wander, play and live their best life without worrying about the many visitors. If you’re lucky, you’ll even see baby monkeys taking their first steps (or leaps, to be more precise). Monkeys don’t give a damn about us humans, so a word of advice: don’t disturb them and enjoy watching them from a distance. They’re much funnier from afar.
